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[title] => Trijumf Armanijevog modnog svemira na milanskom tjednu muške mode
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[fulltext] => Može se reći da je milanski tjedan muške mode za proljeće i ljeto 2016. imao sjajnu završnicu predstavljanjem bezvremenske kolekcije Giorgia Armanija.
Stari majstor je lani proslavio 80. godinu života i 40 godina rada u modi, a na pisti u Milanu pojavio se u savršenoj fizičkoj formi, oblikovanih mišića i vječno mladalačkog imidža u T-shirt majici, baš onako kako je izgledao zadnjih desetljeća, vječno mlad, kao i njegove kreacije.
Muška kolekcija koju je pokazao više je bila modna filozofija nego prijedlozi za odijevanje muškaraca u idućoj sezoni. “Armanijev modni svemir”, kako su njegov nastup odmah ocijenili kritičari, donio je više individualnosti i kreativnosti nego svi viđeni trendovi.
Kao i do sada, Armanijeva kolekcija bila je fokusirana na ležernost: lanene hlače, svila, meki ogrtači, ugodne jakne, kožne sandale... a sve uglavnom u bojama pijeska, bež, golubljeplavoj, boji škriljevca...
Armani je unio i novinu – široke, ležerne hlače skupljene ispod koljena, onako kako se nosilo negdje između dva prošlostoljetna rata, ali nisu to bili vintage komadi, to je jednostavno onaj Armani koji postojano oblikuje modni svijet.
Armanijevu trijumfu prethodila su predstavljanja kolekcija mahom slavnih i zvučnih imena.
Silvia Venturini Fendi izjavila je kako je njezina muška kolekcija Fendi funkcionalnija nego ikad prije. Osim što je ponudila ležernu odjeću (kaže: “onakvu kakvu tata odijeva preko vikenda”) u finom izdanju, posebnu je pažnju posvetila modnim dodacima, u čemu se, pak, primijeti utjecaj Karla Lagerfelda.
Angela Missoni je u pravom missonijevskom stilu donijela kombinacije i boje, ali inspirirana Indijom. Kako to i biva kod Missonija, puno je boja i dezena, a novost su veliki kvadrati na košuljama i hlačama kakvi se u modi nisu pojavili već desetljećima.
Dvojac Dolce i Gabbana u velikom je dijelu svoje kolekcije “ponovio lekciju”; dosta toga viđamo zadnjih sezona u muškoj ili ženskoj verziji, no valja istaknuti i ono nešto novo – nježno dezenirana odijela ili kombinacije takvih hlača s majicama.
Spomenimo i Vivienne Westwood koja se u Milanu okomila na pokvarene političare i profit koji dovode do klimatskih promjena, uništavaju planet, potapaju Veneciju... Ali, opet je Dame Vivienne uz politički protest unijela i modu na pistu koja je, kratko rečeno, slobodna.
Olgica Ivić Grizelj, foto: afp
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[text] => {OCMSplitter}Može se reći da je milanski tjedan muške mode za proljeće i ljeto 2016. imao sjajnu završnicu predstavljanjem bezvremenske kolekcije Giorgia Armanija.
Stari majstor je lani proslavio 80. godinu života i 40 godina rada u modi, a na pisti u Milanu pojavio se u savršenoj fizičkoj formi, oblikovanih mišića i vječno mladalačkog imidža u T-shirt majici, baš onako kako je izgledao zadnjih desetljeća, vječno mlad, kao i njegove kreacije.
Muška kolekcija koju je pokazao više je bila modna filozofija nego prijedlozi za odijevanje muškaraca u idućoj sezoni. “Armanijev modni svemir”, kako su njegov nastup odmah ocijenili kritičari, donio je više individualnosti i kreativnosti nego svi viđeni trendovi.
Kao i do sada, Armanijeva kolekcija bila je fokusirana na ležernost: lanene hlače, svila, meki ogrtači, ugodne jakne, kožne sandale... a sve uglavnom u bojama pijeska, bež, golubljeplavoj, boji škriljevca...
Armani je unio i novinu – široke, ležerne hlače skupljene ispod koljena, onako kako se nosilo negdje između dva prošlostoljetna rata, ali nisu to bili vintage komadi, to je jednostavno onaj Armani koji postojano oblikuje modni svijet.
Armanijevu trijumfu prethodila su predstavljanja kolekcija mahom slavnih i zvučnih imena.
Silvia Venturini Fendi izjavila je kako je njezina muška kolekcija Fendi funkcionalnija nego ikad prije. Osim što je ponudila ležernu odjeću (kaže: “onakvu kakvu tata odijeva preko vikenda”) u finom izdanju, posebnu je pažnju posvetila modnim dodacima, u čemu se, pak, primijeti utjecaj Karla Lagerfelda.
Angela Missoni je u pravom missonijevskom stilu donijela kombinacije i boje, ali inspirirana Indijom. Kako to i biva kod Missonija, puno je boja i dezena, a novost su veliki kvadrati na košuljama i hlačama kakvi se u modi nisu pojavili već desetljećima.
Dvojac Dolce i Gabbana u velikom je dijelu svoje kolekcije “ponovio lekciju”; dosta toga viđamo zadnjih sezona u muškoj ili ženskoj verziji, no valja istaknuti i ono nešto novo – nježno dezenirana odijela ili kombinacije takvih hlača s majicama.
Spomenimo i Vivienne Westwood koja se u Milanu okomila na pokvarene političare i profit koji dovode do klimatskih promjena, uništavaju planet, potapaju Veneciju... Ali, opet je Dame Vivienne uz politički protest unijela i modu na pistu koja je, kratko rečeno, slobodna.
Olgica Ivić Grizelj, foto: afp
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21. svibanj 2024 00:27
